Jeonju….ah, beautiful, authentic Jeonju. The word authentic stands out to me. A lot.
Having lived in the large city of Busan, I’ve often felt frustrated that I’ve been left out of seeing ancient and “authentic” Korea. Now I completely understand that the entire country has had to literally rebuild itself in the last half century (and repeatedly more after several Japanese invasions), so it makes sense that so much of the infrastructure is new.
If you’re like me and longing to see something traditional and historic, the Jeonju is your answer. It’s the perfect getaway for those who are closer to Seoul, as it is only 2 hours away, by train. For those on the southern end of the country, I recommend visiting Gyeongju, which offers a similar experience.
PSA: The videos that I had put together feature these experiences in a different order. If I were to re-do my trip, I would do it in the order that I list below.
Where To Stay
When you stay in Jeonju, the most authentic way to do this is by sleeping in a traditional hanok which is located in the the hanok village of Jeonju. The room is a little small, but perfect for one person, and a little tight for two people. I’ve never gone with a group, so there might be bigger rooms available. You can see a tour of my hanok in in the video above.
If you have back pain or are sensitive to sleeping on harder surfaces, I do not recommend that you stay in a hanok. The traditional Korean beds are essentially mats on the floor, and the pillow reminds me of a softer version of a bean bag. It’s not the most plush experience, but there is something super charming about it. Me being the lightest sleeper I know, I actually slept pretty well!! It must have been the utter quiet of the village, no sounds of cars speeding or honking. It is just a peaceful atmosphere, and the hosts are very gracious in helping you navigate the town.
I highly recommend staying at Sarangroo as the hosts made my experience absolutely delightful!! It’s a husband and wife team who operate a small plot of hanoks, and, while neither speak English, gave their best efforts to communicate with me. I got a printed out sheet of information in English. The husband also highly recommended that I go to a special exhibition at the Intangible Heritage Center down the street. It required reservations, so he was happy to make them for me.
Another great perk is that breakfast is FREE AND HEALTHY!!! I got a lovely salad, fruits, and eggs, along with choice of toast. I also got coffee and orange juice. It was perfectly light and healthy. YAY!
DAY 1: Rent a Hanbok and Explore Gyeonggijeon Shrine
What I didn’t do until the second day, but wish I did was rent a hanbok before visiting this beautiful , ancient complex. Hanbok rental locations are all around this museum, so it will be easy to find a place. My rate was about $20 for 4 hours and included hairstyle and a cute bag. I went to the shop that was recommended by my hosts, which is Hanboknam .
The Gyeonggijeon Shrine was used by the first king of the Joseon Dynasty for multiuse purposes, and the complex itself is comprised of many different structures. The cool part of it is that it has the only original portrait of the first king. Rumor has it that North Korea has the other original portrait.
There was an archive complex that featured ancient texts and artifacts, and other beautiful hanoks and buildings that were perfectly suited for beautiful photography, if you are into taking lots of photos like I was.
I loved being so close to history and learning more about the royal history of Korea, and seeing some ancient architecture, although, I believe, most of it was rebuilt due to Japanese destructions.
I spent 3 hours there. But that’s because I was alone and had to deal with tripods, timing, and filming stuff around people.
Lunch
Another fun fact about Jeonju is that it is the birthplace of bibimbap. Wikipedia defines bibimbap as the following “Bibimbap is served as a bowl of warm white rice topped with namul (sautéed and seasoned vegetables) or kimchi (traditional fermented vegetables) and gochujang (chili pepper paste), soy sauce, or doenjang (a fermented soybean paste). A raw or fried egg and sliced meat (usually beef) are common additions. The hot dish is stirred together thoroughly just before eating.”
As you can see there are a variety of veggies and sauces, as well as methods of preparing each vegetable. I went to the most famous restaurant, Hanguk Restaurant, which literally was the restaurant where it all started. It’s even in the Michelin guide!
I ordered the most famous dish, their bibimbap with raw beef on top. Since I didn’t know Korean, I didn’t know it was raw beef. Thankfully, I am an open-minded eater, so I enjoyed the dish to the fullest. If you are into more acidic, fermented flavors, you would like this dish. It’s a great healthy and filling lunch choice.
National Intangible Heritage Center
I am so glad that my hosts recommended the National Intangible Heritage Center because it was such a treat! This is a large complex that features Korean culture exhibitions. Although most of the grounds were closed to visitors due to COVID-19, I was lucky enough to see 2 exhibitions. One being about Korean traditional wood furniture (which is absolutely beautiful), and showing what the inside of a traditional hanok used to look like. They also had videos of how kimchi and soybean paste are made.
I loved that experience because, as a former Peace Corps Volunteer, being close to and learning about culture and traditions is in my blood.
The Best Sunset Spot
This one requires a few sets of stairs, but it’s absolutely worth it, and it’s called Omokdae. If starting from the direction of the Jaman Mural Village, you know you’ve reached the right area when you see a bridge that goes over the road.
Go up the stairs, continue on until you see a couple of ancient buildings (I think they used to be town halls in the royal days), and continue to the back side of the yard. You will find another pair of stairs. Take those until you find a spot that has the views of the hanok village!
Day 2: Park Visit + Mural Village
Deokjin Park
First thing in the morning, I recommend visiting the most famous park in Jeonju, which is Deokjin Park. If you come in the middle of the summer, you are in luck because the lake will be completely filled with fully bloomed water irises! What a sight!
I came in September, so I missed the bloom, but it was still quite an extraordinary view. Hundreds of thousands of water lilies right in front of you.
There are a few bridges, cute hanok pavilions, and several areas around the park where you can relax and people watch.
Jaman Mural Village
If you love art, especially murals, this is the place for you. Tucked a few minutes walk to the east of the hanok village is this super unique village on a hill, the Jaman Mural Village. When you first get there, you will see about three different routes. Start with the one on the right, and then to the middle route. This is also a great opportunity to take lots of photos of the murals.
What I liked about my experience there is that many of the murals featured plaques that had a short bio of the artist along with their photo. This is awesome as we don’t often see credit given to muralists so publicly, unless you can find their signature in a corner.
Some murals had strong, and sometimes, quite emotional cultural and societal references without even writing anything.
Grab a drink and a snack at the top of the hill at a cafe that has stunning views of the city. I do not remember the name of the cafe, but there were murals of American music legends right in front of it. The cafe itself has bright colors, with a memorable pink color. I loved it!
Traditional Tea House
Before heading to dinner, stop by Gyodong Tea House. This is one of the most revered teahouses in Jeonju, so I had to take advantage of this treat. I ordered a tea that used to be only served to the royals.
The tables are carved wood and seating is low, on pillows. If you have back or leg issues, you might want to skip this.
The server sat across from me and took the time to explain the cherished ritual of preparing tea. There are lots of steps, and photography wasn’t allowed, so I will not go over the steps here.
Don’t forget to order the sesame pudding/custard as it was nothing like I’ve ever tasted. The texture, flavors, all of it was a very new flavor that isn’t incorporated in American cuisine.
I hope you enjoyed my recommendations. If you have any questions or additional recommendations, please feel free to reach out!
Best,
Olena
Expat Chick 